It can be a rewarding or disappointing moment in the build of a model but the removal of the paint masks is something I enjoy.
First up is the underside silver. Rather than following the chipping route like the topside, I've opted to use a variety of different colours to achieve a distempered look on the underside.
The underside base coat is Tamiya AS-12 decanted from the can however it's more of a carry over from the silver chipping on the upper colours rather than a chipping colour. Following on from the progress of the upper surface colours last weekend, I sat down for a few hours this afternoon and worked on the IJN grey for the underside of the Jack. And I've got to say that I'm fairly chuffed with the result.
I thought I'd give a run down on the colours used to get the result and the method in which I apply them.
The first colour applied is Mr Color 305 FS36118, also know as Gunship Grey. I've applied this in thin coats however there's no consistency to the areas of application. This is a layer to help with shadows and some depth to the final colours.You can see that I've concentrated a bit more colour around the leading third of the wing but there's no real reason for this. Randomness in the underlying colour coats results in a random pattern of the final colours. Note that this is a lacquer colour that offers quite a robust surface to apply following colours onto.
As a corollary, I've tried the black basing method before and besides using a lot of black paint, its also a technique that can take a LOT of time to achieve the final result. It's something that I couldn't really be bothered spending the time on to achieve the desired result, each to their own of course.
Following the Gunship Grey is a lighter colour. I tend to avoid whites or very light greys in any underlying colours as they can usually disappear. White can be quite a contrasting colour so I've opted for Gunze Aqueous 336 Hemp to outline the panel lines. Some might think "oooh, the panel line preshading" but keep in mind that the intent is not to make it look like a tartan quilt technique. Frankly, I hate the blackening of panel lines to achieve shadow. The hemp colour is chosen to provide a colour that will blend in well but offer some contrast in the final colour. It's also a good contrast colour against the gunship grey.
The next colour is Gunze 70 RLM 02. I've used this colour to fill in the gaps between the hemp colour. All the colours so far have been thinned with almost 70% lacquer thinner so they are towards the watery side. A low pressure in the order of 8-10 psi has achieved these results.
The final of the underside colours before the final IJN grey is Gunze Aqueous 422 RLM 82. This will provide some interesting hints of grim and gunk on the underside colour. This time I've applied it along a random selection of panel lines.
Next up is the underside IJN grey which I've applied using a scrim mask. It's something that I picked up from the car builders. I'd seen one YouTube video of a chap who used a doily to apply a pearl pattern in the underlying colours of a classic era vehicle. It resulted with a fantastic deep purple/black pearl paint finish.
I love picking up tips from other genres of scale modelling.
You can see in the gallery above the result of using the scrim mask. Again the paint is thinned quite a bit with almost 70% lacquer thinner. I then move and turn the scrim mask around to achieve the distemper look, You can see the result of in the first two images. You can make out some of the underlying colours through the IJN grey.
Once I'd completed the the work with the scrim I then went over the result with a very lightly dusted application of the IJN grey, This was to help blend the distemper pattern but still leave it obvious.
The following photos show a bit more detail of the result from using the mask.
And where we are at the moment.
I'm digging the yellow.